This South Bronx bus company was where I found my first job in New York: I drove a van for them, not a bus. It was especially good training for any Marxist. There was a byzantine pay process that required separate tallies for
hours, miles, and wait times; I could never figure out how much I was going to make. Longtime drivers at Campus all had strategems for running jobs off the company's books; that was another thing I could never figure out.
Buses parked in the lot are barly visible in this city tax photoAnother shot of the yard
One night in the yard the nozzle slipped out of my hands while I was gassing-up the van. It sprayed right into my face before hitting the asphalt. I ran to a sink inside the oversized garage doors and frantically splashed water into my
eyes. As far as I
know there were no long-term effects. I had no doctor and no health care so there was nothing I could have done about it anyway.
I would get off at six or nine or three in the morning; sometimes the jobs went on for days and I'd be up in Boston the whole time. I never knew when the next job would happen. Sometimes it would be every day for ten or eleven days and
then nothing, and sometimes nothing lasted for weeks.
Every day that I worked I'd take the 6 train from the East Village to Mott Haven, then walk to 70 Bruckner where Campus kept its buses. That part of the neighborhood was industrial and completely empty after dark. On my way to the
train I'd pass the Mitchel Houses, a ten-building complex that's always been a symbol of what's wrong with public housing in New York. Mott Haven itself was a pretty tough neighborhood even before I moved to NYC. It's still got one
of the highest concentrations of poverty in the country, with all the illness and crime that implies. There was a police station right at the subway stop; sometimes I thought I looked like a cop on his way home from work. I never had any
problems but I doubt that's why. (I learned later that no self-respecting policeman would be caught dead in a subway; they drove home to their places on Long Island.) Now I think I was just lucky, as I was during my years driving a cab
and living through the crack epidemic in the EV.
In an ironic twist I ended up living on Bruckner in a loft almost right across the street from where I worked over forty years earlier. I was taking the same subway to get downtown for a movie. Everything had changed except the Mitchel
Houses.
Later in the 80s I wrote a song for the Desis about the guy who ran Campus Coach Lines. I had an animus and he had a mansion up in Westchester.
Open fire hydrant on a hot summer night, East Village
Puerto Rican kids play in the spray from an open hydrant near the corner of 10th Street and First Avenue. I moved that summer to a railroad flat a couple doors down the block at number 256. The apartment got its name from its shape, like
that of a boxcar. On the north end was a living room with two windows opening onto 10th; a water closet with a chain-flush was stuck into one corner. Next came the kitchen followed by two identically shaped small rooms, each with a window
opening onto an airshaft.
We used the last room on the south end as the bedroom; a queen-sized mattress on the floor had about a foot of clearance on three of its four sides. The door to the hallway was in the kitchen, at the center of the boxcar. The kitchen
also contained the bathtub. This was a very common arrangement in East Village tenements. The only difference between our building in the 1980s and its original contours in the 1880s was the WC; there used to be a common bathroom in the
hall. We also had hot water, unlike the eastern European immigrants who'd lived there a century before.
Rent was two-hundred and fifty dollars a month and the place was rent-stabilized, which meant that payments could only be raised a small percentage at the end of the lease. I once found an ad in a Village Voice from the 60s that
advertised places in the building for seventy-five dollars a month. When we left the place in 1997 the rent was about six-hundred.
The story of my life
I’m not sure exactly when i clipped this out of a magazine—must be The New Yorker, though god knows how I ended up with a copy of that during the poverty years. It so perfectly encapsulates my desperate, ineffectual attempts at
living my life that I had it on the wall of my cockroach-infested tenement. Chronic skin problems, an absolute shit diet, and a Travis Bickle diary entry reflected exactly what I was basing my hopes on: Publishers Clearing House.
PIL (photographer unknown)
When I stumbled on this picture I thought back to a ride on New Year’s Eve at the end of 1980; it was one of the few New Year’s Eves that I worked. It was lucrative (though not as good as Halloween) but it was a pain in the ass from
the moment I started my shift. Once again I hadn’t figured out how to make the real money. Experienced cabbies drove north along First Avenue picking up anyone they could jam in, charging them all a fixed price, dropping them only on
First. When they got to 96th Street they’d turn around and do the same thing all the way down Second. A good midwestern boy like me treated the madness like any other night, too afraid and too dumb to break the rules. When I saw the PIL
picture I remembered that one of my rides that night was Keith Levene and Viv Albertine, on their way to a Slits show at Hurrah's on 62nd Street.
On April 4 I'd seen Public Image Limited in their first US show. They played at the Palladium, the former Music Academy building on 14th Street near Union Square. It was a grand old auditorium just the right size for bands that hadn't
graduated to the useless and expensive arenas. I saw the Clash there a couple of times, The Jam, The Pretenders, each with legendary opening acts like The Cramps, James Blood Ulmer, and Bo Diddley.
I was in total awe of PIL, obsessed by them; they were doing everything I wanted to do and were probably the biggest single influence on my songwriting at this time. In 1978 I had played their first single until I wore out the vinyl; I
still think it's a near-perfect 45. First Issue and Metal Box, the first two albums, were what I wanted Desi Desi and Desi to sound like, and many of my best tunes were inspired by those recordings. I wanted to
hear the seismic waves of a Jah Wobble bassline under everything. I wanted the knife-edge noise parts Keith Levene was playing, sometimes rhythmic and sometimes not, nothing anyone had heard before. I wanted Lydon-style vocals that
sometimes provided a melody but often devolved into rhythmic chanting that was nothing at all like the hip-hop that arrived from the Bronx a few years later. I wanted to be outrageous, angry, scathing, and smart. I wanted to tunnel
straight into my brain and let the murder out.
But I rarely got that sound from the Desis. There were gigs where it happened but not often. We were so bound by poverty! I should have been playing out of a Marshall stack; I occasionally found one at rehearsal spaces and once at a
gig, the Terminal Art Show in Brooklyn '83. Fran should have had a good bass and a big amp to get that Jah Wobble tectonic groove. We needed more lead work cutting through the noise, like Byron used to do with Ed Davis, but we had
reluctantly become a trio as Byron drifted away. I felt a lot more comfortable when at least some of the weird-ass parts I wanted were played by someone with a mastery of his instrument. I should have recruited someone new; I’m not sure
I ever grew into my role as the only guitarist. I was as good as I’ve ever been for a few years in the 80s and that probably wasn't enough.
The Metal Box
Where We Ate, Part 1
De Robertis, and just to the right, Pete's Spice (photographer unknown)
De Robertis Italian Pastry Shoppe and Pete's Spice were around the corner from me on First Avenue. I was a
regular at the pastry shop—as opposed to the spice shop—which stood at this location for one-hundred and ten years. (It closed in 2014.) It was often overshadowed by the pasticcheria around the corner on 11th, Veniero's, where tedious crowds gathered before Easter and other big religious holidays. Finally, though, a lobster tail is a lobster tail and I found the quality of goods to be the same in both shops.
I was still sort of thin when I moved to NYC in '79, but within a few years my suicidal eating habits and liquor consumption saw me putting on weight—a process that continued until I stopped drinking during the pandemic. I first heard
the ominous words, your sugar is high when I finally got health care after becoming a teacher at the end of '86. Initially I blamed the cannolis at De Robertis but that was naive; as most diabetics learn, carbohydrates of any sort had
become my enemy. In any case after a few years poisoning myself with those cannolis, I moved on to the rum babàs and the sfogliatellas.
De Robertis had the fascinating reputation of being a mob hangout. In this case the rumors were true (along with Lanza's down the block and John's on 12th Street). Lucky Luciano, a neighborhood boy, and Meyer Lansky—compatriots in Murder
Incorporated—met regularly in the back room of the pasticcheria during the twenties. Mike the Boss Sabatelli and compatriots were busted in 1935 for operating an Italian Lottery—a numbers racket—out of the same back room. In the
seventies Carmine Galante, boss of the Bonanno family at the time, planned his share of slaughter among the demitasse cups.
A headline two weeks after I arrived in NYC that appeared in my song BMT Class War
In my era eight guys from John Gotti's crew were arrested in '91 on the basis of wiretaps in De Robertis; I wonder if I'm on tape somewhere complaining about pignolis. (It's heretical to anyone raised in the city, but cookie fans raised in
cuisine-free environments like Columbus, Ohio, prefer ultra-processed Pepperidge Farm.)
De Robertis interior (photographer unknown)
The store just to the right of De Robertis was Pete's Spice Shop where I worked for three days selling bulk grain to early health-food aficianados. I've mentioned in other places what I believe to be a neurologically-based inability to work
with figures; after three days of pain, boredom, and embarrassment I was told to go home and practice my arithmetic.
The murals above each store's entrance are by Arnie Charnick, who also did the locally famous paintings at Veselka's.
De Robertis Pasticcheria and Pete's Spice (photo by Martin Mahoney) Veselka (photographer unknown)
This Ukranian place on Second Avenue and 9th Street made the transition to the cleaned-up, high-rent contemporary East Village without breaking a sweat. Like the neighboring Kiev (two blocks south) and 2nd Avenue Deli (one block north),
Veselka served mountainous plates of delicious pierogies and every other artery-clogging Eastern European specialty you can think of. Around the corner on 9th, peering down through the grating on a basement window, you'd see a Breughel painting: a roomful of peasant women rolling out dough.
Meat, farmer's cheese, potato, mushroom, and sauerkraut pierogi were the mainstays during my era at Veselka; I usually ordered a mix of the cheese and potato, sometimes the meat. Butter-soaked caramelized onions came in a bowl to the side, as did
small paper containers of sour cream and apple sauce. They were served boiled or fried. I'm not sure I've ever eaten with anyone who had them fried.
Veselka in the 80s (photographer unknown)
When we ate at Veselka's in the 80s it was still selling newspapers out front, back in a time when people still read them. I often read the Times there over coffee and mushroom-barley soup—with buttered challah bread—back when I was still reading print versions of anything. Sometimes we
would sit in the back room where we were usually alone; I'm not sure that most customers even knew it was there. There was an extensive remodeling sometime during the 90s that changed the place entirely; the back room disappeared, along with the newspapers and the tacky old East Village vibes; the place became wholly suited to the far wealthier Manhattan of the present day.
Veselka is enjoying a resurgence as of this writing with new locations around the city and a mail-order business. It's driven by the same retro-chic nostalgia causing those hours-long lines outside of Katz's. I don't begrudge the feeling;
these places have lasted because they are superb. I just wish the lines weren't so long. If you time your visits carefully you might miss the wait at either place.
Just below is a photo of artist Charnick working on the Veselka murals, which I thought were the best in the
neighborhood (especially the ones inside).
Charnick at work on an exterior mural (photographer unknown)
Below is a screen grab from my 1991 video, The Look of Love, with artist-actor Charles Schick rampaging through an apartment adorned with a piece of a Veselka mural. Charnick made new
murals every few years and cut up the
older ones for sale to neighborhood fans with extra cash. I loved every detail of these paintings.
Frame from The Look of Love (1991) showing fragment of Charnick muralDisco Donut (photographer unknown)
The first place I lived in NYC was on the corner of Third Avenue and 12th Street; Disco Donut was on the corner of Third and 14th. It's best remembered now as the place Travis took Iris in Taxi Driver, though that perpetuates a
small inaccuracy: during the filming, the place was still known as Sam's Pizza and didn't get a name change until after the movie's release.
When Disco Donuts closed in '85 it was representative of the good-enough, cheap-enough restaurants that were on every other corner in downtown NYC. If my failing memory has any validity at all it was the first place I ever had disco
fries, New York's discount version of poutine.
Upstairs from Disco Donut was a place called Carmelita's that people liked to speculate about without knowing a thing. I was told it was a Latin dance venue, a lesbian dance venue, an event space, and/or a brothel. I was one of many who
never climbed the stairs to find out.
Disco Donut (photo Louise Egan)License photo
I almost starved to death working for Campus Coach Lines. I told them weeks in advance that there was
going to be a night I couldn't work—I had tickets for The Pretenders at the Palladium and Fran had come up from Cincinnati. I ended
up having to leave the concert early to get to the job and they still didn't give me another shift for weeks. I decided I knew the city well enough to get a taxi license, a ridiculously easy task to accomplish. The test was a joke, the
simplest I've ever taken. Plus the fix was in since I was sponsored by a fleet; nobody with fleet backing failed.
I started working for Dover Garage in the West Village at Hudson and Charles. I began to wait around with the other drivers in a shape-up every night; after an hour or so I'd get my cab.
The Shape-Up
New driver orientation (though no class could have prepared us for the reality)Study sheet for the geography portion of the license test. Note the Statler Hilton and other destinations that exist only in memeory.Tom Enright's 1980 OSU football schedule